We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. The theory is that it can inhibit the activity of the 5-α-reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair loss and allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. Last, but not least, we have to write about caffeine and hair growth. But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actual human beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) and stimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that " the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." But you know, the proof is in the pudding.Īnother thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. :)Ī well-known thing about Caffeine is that it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. Oh, and one more thing: glabridin seems to be also an antioxidant, which is just one more reason to be happy about licorice root extract on an ingredient list.īottom line: Licorice is a great skincare ingredient with significant depigmenting, anti-inflammatory and even some antioxidant properties. It’s used to treat several skin diseases that are connected to inflammation including atopic dermatitis, rosacea or eczema. Glabridin has also some soothing properties but the main active anti-inflammatory component is glycyrrhizin. 2 magic property is that licorice is a potent anti-inflammatory. The latter one is a very-very expensive ingredient, so if you are after the depigmenting properties try to choose a product that boasts its high-quality licorice extract. We have seen extracts with only 4% glabridin as well as 40% glabridin. There is just one catch regarding glabridin and licorice: the amount of glabridin in commercial licorice extracts can vary a lot. It's definitely one of the best UV-filter agents we have today, especially in the US where new-generation Tinosorb filters are not (yet) approved. The English translation is, so far it looks like sunscreens with nanoparticles do stay on the surface of the skin where they should be.Īll in all, Titanium Dioxide is a famous sunscreen agent and for good reason, it gives broad spectrum UV protection (best at UVB and UVA II), it's highly stable, and it has a good safety profile. A 2009 review article about the safety of nanoparticles summarizes this, "to date, in-vivo and in-vitro studies have not demonstrated percutaneous penetration of nanosized particles in titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreens". But do not panic, these are concerns under investigation. Once absorbed they might form unwanted complexes with proteins and they might promote the formation of evil free radicals. The main concern with nanoparticles is that they are so tiny that they are absorbed into the skin more than we want them (ideally sunscreen should remain on the surface of the skin). The itsy-bitsy Nano-sized particles improve both spreadability and reduce the whitish tint a lot, but unfortunately, it also introduces new health concerns. The cosmetic industry is, of course, really trying to solve this problem and the best solution so far is using nanoparticles. Sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide are often hard to spread on the skin and they leave a disturbing whitish tint. The disadvantage of Titanium Dioxide is that it's not cosmetically elegant, meaning it's a white, "unspreadable" mess. Regular sized Titanium Dioxide also has a great safety profile, it's non-irritating and is pretty much free from any health concerns (like estrogenic effect worries with some chemical filters). Its protection is very good between 290 - 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range), and less good at 350-400 nm (UVA I) range. Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane CrosspolymerĪnyway, it doesn't matter if it reflects or absorbs, Titanium Dioxide is a pretty awesome sunscreen agent for two main reasons: it gives a nice broad spectrum coverage and it's highly stable. Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate , Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer ,
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